10 Feb 2021. We’ve been in Accra, Ghana for just over a month now. Carlton is settling in to his job at the Embassy. Isaiah is settling in to life at school – under strident protest. And I am getting things set up at the house and working on expanding my horizons. Thank goodness I moved alone to Riga twenty years ago. It was definitely preparation for this moment – although they are completely different experiences. . . but that’s a story for another day.
On the weekends, we have been trying to reach out and see what we can see.
A Walk Above the Trees
One of our first adventures was to the Botanical Gardens of Legon. Nestled beside the University of Ghana on the northwest side of the city, the gardens offer a shaded respite from the humming traffic, concrete buildings, and packed, red dirt of the city. The garden offers a giant playground, canoe rentals and plenty of shaded areas for picnics and play. It also has a canopy walk – which was our focus for the day. On wooden bridges suspended from steel wire, we walked through the treetops trying to spot the birds and animals. From the platforms, we had excellent views of the city and the rising topography to the north and west. We watched a squirrel survive the long drop from the trees as he was pushed out by his playmate – with friends like that, who needs enemies? In the park below, families and friends enjoyed a Sunday afternoon. Children played tag and king of the hill. A group practiced archery, and several people were walking and running for an afternoon workout. A relaxing afternoon getaway.
A Little Walk to the W.E.B. DuBois Center
A few weekends later, I was ready to explore the markets. The W.E.B DuBois Center hosts a craft market on the final Saturday of each month. Our sponsor drove me by the Center on the way back from our Saturday shopping outing, and I was confident we could walk there easily. Carlton and Isaiah were a bit skeptical of the outing – they always want more details. Where exactly is it? What exactly will be there? Why do you want to go? What do you want to buy? I never have an exact answer for anything, so I’m glad they decided to come anyway.
Navigating on foot is always an adventure, especially in Accra. There are rarely sidewalks or street signs, and often there are open sewers edging the road (some day I will tell you the adventures in driving). The W.E.B. DuBois Center is on the edge of a residential neighborhood, so though there aren’t sidewalks, there also is not a lot of traffic – in Accra terms. I don’t have a mobile map available and I forgot my paper map so I did miss a turn. Of course, this brought some teasing from Carlton about my navigation (and preparation) skills and some heckling from Isaiah who was “HOOOOOT and TIIIIRED” from the walk.
I was willing to ask for directions, but Carlton decided to pull out his mobile map (where was he before?), and we were just on the wrong side of the block. A quick walk later, and we were there. Luckily, it was worth it, and their irritation with my navigation gave way to interest in the carved wooden fish, animals, bowls and masks; the bright textiles; photographs and paintings, and various local foods.
Isaiah is the best bargainer of us all – so good that Carlton allowed him to make his first Ghanaian purchase. I’m sure we will be back for more. I was flattered by one of the vendors from the Upper West region who asked where I had stayed when I visited Wa since my pronunciation of her company was correct. Flattery works, and I walked away with a small jar of Asuntinboura Enterprise’s Natural Shea Butter produced in Wa, Ghana.
The Green Butterfly Market – A Feast for all Your Senses
Last weekend was The Green Butterfly Market at the Department of Parks and Gardens. It isn’t close enough to walk – but we were able to borrow a vehicle. This market was busier (we were there much earlier in the day than the arts and crafts market) and had more stalls. The Green Butterfly Market sings to you with music and catches your eyes with oil paintings and carvings of both traditional and contemporary themes along with the brightly colored fabrics and beads. You can smell the spices and the soaps and lotions along with the food for sale from the vendors.
We did find the same textile vendor I had spoken with at the craft market. She sells fabric by the yard as well as finished goods. She had so many things it was hard to choose. I settled on a table runner and placemats. Isaiah and Carlton found drums, and I found a balafon from Burkina Faso to add to our collection. We also spoke with sculptors, painters and jewelry designers. Our list of ideas for gifts and souvenirs is long and growing along with Carlton’s collection of Ghanaian shirts.